1920's - Everyday Dresses Overview

Everyday Dresses from 1928

Examples of 1920s Day Dresses

The 1920s was in many ways a decade of drastic change, and this was reflected in a sweeping change in women’s fashions. The majority of this change is attributed to the lingering repercussions of the 1^st World War. During the war women were forced to work in many jobs that had previously belonged solely to men and once the war was over they were reluctant to return to the role of housewife. Film stars and other celebrities were also gaining in popularity and influence and there was a greater demand for looks imitating the latest stars amongst the lower classes. As a result, there was a huge rise in popularity for the newly created ‘La garconne’ look, peaking 1926 and popularised by many including Coco Chanel, where a boyish figure was preferable to the more traditional feminine curves. Hairstyles also reflected the youthful and androgynous ‘la garconne’ style, with bobbed and shingled hairstyles becoming the norm by 1926, whilst longer hair was worn up. Hats were still a requirement of female respectability, and in the 1920s the cloche hat dominated, worn low over the brow.

Finger waves were a popular hairstyle

Natalie Kingston Bob Hairstyle

A Selection of 1920s Cloche Hats

Fashion became dominated by straight-cut, chemise dresses, the line of which hung from the shoulders, whilst the waistline was lowered to hip level. In the early part of the decade, gathers at the waist created some embellishment, whilst later in the decade this changed to pleated skirts, which aided in freedom of movement. It was only during 1924-25 that the simple tublar shape was common for daywear. One advantage of this simple cut was that it allowed easy recreation by the less well off in their own homes. It only required two or three meters of fabric to make one dress, which could vary depending upon what the wearer could afford. Patterns were sold by magazines and pattern companies, allowing the average housewife to copy the latest haute couture from the comfort of her own home.

A Selection of 1920s Dresses

Examples of 1920s Skirts

Throughout the decade, hemlines remained higher than they had been for the previous few centuries. Although the fashionable length tended to vary between knee length and mid-calf, they dropped back towards ankle length in 1923 before peaking again in 1927 at the previously scandalous height of two inches above the knee. Hemlines dipped back towards the ankle in 1929, at the close of the decade, a move linked by some to the financial strife caused by the Wall Street Crash.

1920's Day Dresses Hemline Changes

 Another change was to necklines, with the Bateau or scoop neckline gaining popularity. This allowed the dress to be slipped over the head, without buttons or other fastenings being required. This made the dress easier to make and to wear as enhancing the more leisurely feel of fashion throughout the decade. The nautically themed square sailor necks and deep V necks with long ties was also popular throughout the 1920s. Later in the decade, more narrow V’s became popular whilst collars as a whole became smaller and daintier, sometimes even requiring buttons once more.

1920s Day Dress Collars

For day dresses, the sleeves proved to be a defining part of the 1920s feel. The majority of dresses for everyday wear were long sleeved, which can perhaps be attributed to lingering modesty of appearance, however ¾ and elbow length sleeves were also popular. There were three main styles of sleeve, fitted, bell and bishop. Fitted sleeves, were fitted to the arm’s shape and had a straight cut. Bell sleeves were fitted at the shoulder, then allowed to form a triangle or bell shape at the elbow. Bishop sleeves were gathered at the shoulder and wrist, but otherwise allowed to balloon around the arm.

1920s Day Dress Sleeve Styles

A variety of fabrics were used for dresses, including cotton, silk satin, chiffon and wool. Fabrics could be plain or elaborately decorated, often depending upon desired usage. Dresses for work tended towards plain block colours, predominantly black. Whereas, for both tea and evening dresses a variety of boldly patterned fabrics would be used. Patterns tended to reflect the popular Art-Deco movement of the time, or follow more traditional floral or abstract designs. Patterns could also have more international influences, such as Slavic at the start of the decade, brought over by Russian emigres, Egyptian following the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 or Chinese later in the decade. Decoration could also take the form of beading or fringing, although this tended to be reserved for evening wear as the aim was to showcase the latest dance moves.

Selection of 1920s Day Dresses

Selection of 1920s Day Dresses

As hemlines rose, so the focus turned to stockings, with the introduction of artificial silk allowing the less well-off to imitate the latest trends as well as giving a more preferable sheen. For both day and evening wear plain colours such as black, beige and white were preferred, but paler colours of stocking became more popular than their black counterparts. On the whole, shoes were still a valuable commodity and therefore retained an air of practicality, with the most popular being Cuban heeled court shoes, or other similar styles with cross straps or T-bars. On the whole shoes were made from leather. Evening shoes could be more elaborate, the leather replaced with gilded kid or embroidered silk, whilst bejewelled or precious metal buckles could be used.

Example of Stockings

Examples of 1920s Shoes

1920s Shoe Detail

Following the trend of affordable fashion, costume jewellery became an acceptable accessory in the 1920s, following the ideals of Chanel who said that jewellery should be used to decorate, not to boast of wealth. This allowed the creation of pieces in colours and sizes impossible in nature as well as making fashion affordable for the less well off. The most common pieces were long ropes of beads, predominantly pearls that would be worn during the day, as well as in the evening.

Coco Chanel Style Outfit

Art Deco Fashion

The 1920s saw the introduction of clothing and shoes made to specific sizes that were manufactured en masse, as we know today. It was a decade in which fashion was made affordable and deliberately marketed at the general public. Women’s fashion became freer, with ease of movement and comfort being as much of a priority as appearance in many cases. Technological advances such as artificial silks, elasticated underwear and zips changed the way clothing was designed and made. The fashion of the 1920s was much more complicated than simply the flappers and bright young things. It was a decade of freedom and availability and exploration that continues to fascinate many to this day.

 

1920s Women

Eleanor 

For more information:

 Vintagedancer.com - http://vintagedancer.com/

Mendes, Valerie D, Amy De La Haye, and Valerie D Mendes. Fashion Since 1900. London: Thames & Hudson, 2010. Print.

Images:

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/557179785126317572/

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http://whataboutbobbed.tumblr.com/post/3777171115/many-color-choices-in-each-of-these-charming

http://www.atelierdejojo.com/2015/10/1920-les-annees-folles.html

https://fascinationstreetvintage.wordpress.com/category/skirts/

https://fascinationstreetvintage.wordpress.com/category/skirts/

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http://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-day-dresses/

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http://image.glamourdaze.com/2014/03/1920s-Fashion-Flappers-Look-to-your-Legs-posture.jpg 

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http://cdn.vintagedancer.com/wp-content/uploads/1928-Simpsons_Page_062-fall-shoes-wm.jpg7

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/general-article/eleanor-fashion/

http://fashionableshenanigans.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/1920s-fashion.html

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