Sunday 13 March 2016

Fashions of Egypt: Accessorize like an Egyptian

My last post dealt with the styles and fabrics of Egyptian clothing, so this time I have decided to focus on jewellery, examining the gems, metals and styles the Egyptians found fashionable.

Gold was used extensively in Egyptian Jewellery. Mines in the Eastern desert made the metal (relatively) cheap and accessible, and the Pharaoh would organise mining missions personally. However, gold was often just the setting for elaborate jewelled beads. Lapis Lazuli, which came from Afghanistan, was particularly popular, as the colour blue was associated with heaven and rebirth in Egyptian myth and lore. Red carnelian also appears to have been common, and could also be mined in the Eastern desert. Some of our earliest examples of Jewellery from around 3000 BCE also feature Turquoise, which came from Sinai.

Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise and Carnelian Necklace from the British Museum
One of the most common styles of necklace was the Wesekh collar, which sprung into popularity in the eighteenth dynasty. This was a type of beaded necklace worn by both men and women, formed of many layers small and cylindrical beads (I have attached a section on how to make a collar at the end of this post). Amulets were the other main form of necklace, and were designed to grant magical protection to the wearer. These were actually worn by the dead more often than the living. Lapis Lazuli or carnelian would be shaped into a divine symbol (for example the djed pillar of Osiris, or the more famous eye of Horus) to protect the body in the perilous journey through the afterlife.

Wesekh Collar from the 11th Dynasty, at the British Museum

Djed Pillar Amulet at the British Museum
Tomb art also suggests the Egyptians wore earrings and arm bands. The tomb of Nebamun depicts women wearing large, flat, disc earrings, apparently made from pure gold. Bracelets and arm bands seem to have been tight and decorated with blue beads. The Egyptians also wore finger rings, fashioned out of any of their favorite stones, and decorated with protective hieroglyphs or divine symbols.


Women in Collars, Earrings and Bracelets at the Tomb of Nebamun
This post took a lot longer to write than intended (though I won’t pretend procrastination didn’t play some part in that). Next time, I plan to write about Egyptian hairstyles, both wigs and natural hair. For any further reading on this topic I would highly recommend www.ancientegyptonline.com which is both accurate, and fun to read.

-Rachael

Sources:
www.ancientegyptonline.com
Robins, G. 2008. The Art of Ancient Egypt. Cambridge, MA.
Harris, E.L. 1998. Ancient Egyptian Divination and Magic. Boston, MA and York Beach, ME.
Ogden, J. 1992. Ancient Jewellery. London.

Making a Wesekh collar:

1.       First, get a length of string or wire that will fit comfortably around your collarbone, and meet at the top of your spine. Then begin to add beads. Blues, yellows and reds are the most accurate colours, but feel free to experiment with whatever you think looks best for a more modern twist.

2.       Every two or three beads along, tie another piece of short string or wire to your first piece. Continue doing this until the entire thing is filled

3.       Put a few more beads on the short pieces of string or wire, but don’t cover them completely as you will need enough room at the end to tie a knot.

4.       If you stop here, you have made a normal Egyptian necklace! However if you want to make a full collar, then begin to tie a new length of string, slightly longer than your first, to the shorter pieces. Make sure to check this will also meet on your back. Add beads as you go along, and it should look something like this.


5.       Do this as often as you want, until you are happy with number of layers in your collar. Then tie the ends together, and you have the collar!