Hebe, Dionysus, Leto and Chariclo at the
wedding of Peleus and Thetis, Athenian Black
Figure Dinos C6th B.C., British Museum

The Archaic period was a period of great turmoil and change in Greek history, which is why I find it so interesting. The city states of Athens and Sparta were gaining in power and influence, while the art was shifting its focus from the geometric and highly patterned to realism where the human body was concerned. Finally, at the end of the archaic period, the majority of the Greek city states united to defeat the significantly larger Persian army in the battles of Thermopylae and Salamis.

A totally accurate portrayal of Leonidas at the Battle of Thermopylae

The period in Greek history between the C12th and C8thBC is known as the dark ages, due to the lack of writing to have survived, or seemingly been produced during this time period. Even the artwork became predominantly patterned and geometric during this period, allowing us no glimpse of the fashions of the day. Even by the C8th, the images we get are highly stylised and relatively simplistic. It isn’t until the C7th that we once again begin to find relatively realistic representations of the human form, allowing us to draw more detailed impressions of clothing.

The Dipylon Amphora, Funerary Urn in the Geometric Style from the mid-8th Century. About as useful as drawing a stick man in a fashion magazine

This period, from the end of the dark ages in the C8thBC until the Persian War in 479BC is known as the archaic period in Greek history. Here, some of the better known players of Greek history, namely Athens and Sparta, have come into play, as a couple of the many city states that are collectively referred to as the Greeks.

Significant changes had occurred to clothing by the beginning of the dark ages, with the fitted bodices being replaced with loose garments that were predominantly pinned onto the body.

Peplos Kore (isn't she pretty) around 530BC, Acropolis museum, Athens

For women, the most fashionable garment in this period was the Peplos. This was a piece, generally of woollen cloth, that was wrapped around the body and pinned in place at the shoulders. To make it, a piece of cloth was folded in half, and the top was folded down, to create an overfold or apoptygma and then pinned in place at the shoulders. The open side could be sewn up, by often it was left open and the garment held in place by a girdle at the waist, which helped to take some of the weight off the pins.

Artemis, from the Francois Vase

The peplos has commonly been described as poikilos, or worked in many colours so it seems clear that the garment was a colourful and presumably patterned one. Indeed, on pottery, the peplos is most commonly seem covered in repeating geometric patterns that echo similar eastern designs such as those from Phoenicia. However, this was only for the rich, for the poorer members of society and slaves, the peplos would most likely been made from plain colours or undyed woollen cloth.

Some examples of the Peplos Kore restored to how she may have looked when she was colourful.

The peplos was teemed with a linen shawl referred to as a himation or a kredemnon, that was worn seemingly at the wearers discretion, being draped around the body and possible covering the arms, head or face.

The Berlin Standing Kore, 570-560 BC

Unlike the women, clothing for men appears to have consisted of a sown tunic, known as a chiton. This was a piece of cloth sewn into a tube and then pinned or sown over the arms, creating sleeves. The elderly and the wealthy wore ankle length chitons, while thigh length and belted was the predominant trend amongst those participating in physical activity. The majority of the time, a chiton was probably made of linen, but sometimes the warmer and cheaper wool would have been used.

Gorgon from dinos by the Gorgon painter, 600-550BC

Traditionally, men would also wear a cloak called either a himation or a chlaina, which was wrapped around the body, sometimes in place of a chiton. This cloak would have been woollen and was worn by all levels of society, although the quality of the materials varied drastically.

Achilles and Penthesilea, painted by Exekias, circa 540-30 B.C.

Another option for men was the zoma, or loincloth, that appears to have been worn primarily by athletes and warriors under their armour. Unfortunately, for the fashion minded, much of the art of this period aimed to depict the perfect man, to the ancient Greeks a young male athlete, who according to custom, would be naked.

The 'Gorgon Painter's Dinos' Pot design from Etruria c.580 BCE .

Overall, archaic fashion is very easy to achieve for yourself. All you need is a large rectangle of fabric, two reasonably large pin and a belt. The peplos and the chiton can be good costumes for parties (or re-enacting books of the Aeneid, while being wrapped in a bed sheet). Although my love for this period does stem from my love for the art, I do like the fashion, especially the women's, even if I remain unconvinced that woollen cloth was the best thing to use in the climate of Ancient Greece.