Wednesday 27 January 2016

Ancient Greek Clothing - The Minoans




The North Portico of Knossos, Crete, Greece
Ancient Greece is one of my personal favourite periods of history. The culture of ancient Greece has influenced our own in many ways, yet still remains alien to us. Most people when they think of the ancient Greeks they think of individuals like Alexander the Great, cities like Athens and Sparta and mythical heroes like Hercules and Odysseus. But they are only a small part of ancient Greece which was a wonderful mishmash of warring city states and wildly different cultures united, but only rarely, by an overwhelming sense of Greekness. Therefore, for my first post I am going to look at one of the less well known periods of Greek history, the Minoan Era.


Ritual Bull's Head


To a modern audience, the Minoans are perhaps best known for their namesake, the mythical King Minos of Crete, he of the labyrinth and the Minotaur. People may also have heard of the palace of Knossos on Crete, supposedly the palace of Minos that was partially restored by Arthur Evens in 1905. Less well known is that they are the first major civilisation to fit the label of Greek. It is impossible to tell when the first settlers arrived on Crete but by 2000BC palaces were being built. The Minoans dominated the Aegean Sea until they suddenly disappeared in around 1400BC following a volcanic eruption on the nearby island of Santorini. The truth is we know very little about the Minoans. They did have writing, but we have yet to translate a single piece of it. Instead, our knowledge of the people comes from the buildings they left behind and other objects such as their statues and wall paintings.
The younger snake goddess


The fresco of the saffron pickers
Overall, it appears that women’s clothing consisted of a floor-length, flared skirt and a tight bodice. The bodice is not shown in all art, and when it is it appears that it left the breasts bare. The bodice also appears to sometimes also form a high peaked collar above the head. The skirt, flared from the waist to give the impression of large hips, was often highly decorated. Horizontal strips of material were used to create a ruffled effect, or the skirt could have been made from several layers of fabric. Women’s hair appears to have been worn long and often worn in a knot on top of the head. Hats and headdresses were also common.


Minoan terracotta male statuette

The Prince of lilies
Male clothing appears to be equally elaborate.  While, many statues showing the male figure sporting only a belt and a codpiece, in everyday life a Minoan man would have worn a loincloth. Many of these appear to be longer at the back and front, being cut away at the sides. These loincloths were highly decorated and made from linen, leather, or wool. Sometimes, the front of the loincloth would also be cut away revealing the codpiece beneath. Later in the Minoan period, simple tunics were worn to cover the man’s torso. Men’s hair could either be worn long or cut short, facial hair was uncommon, but some men did sport beards and moustaches. 


For both men and women, a small waist proved to be desirable, and metal belts were used to try to achieve this. Jewellery too was worn by both men and women, which included rings, bracelets, necklaces and hair ornaments. Shoes were rarely worn, but if necessary both men and women would wear a variety of boots and sandals.


Octopus vase
Reproduction of the "Ladies in Blue" fresco
Overall, the Minoan look is possible to recreate. The layered skirt can easily be recreated or an existing skirt adapted, however, hoops or petticoats would most likely be required to get the desired shape. But personally, the Minoan fashion is not one I wish to emulate. Different social conventions make the bare chest awkward and indecent in most circles. Also important, Minoan fashions were designed for the island of Crete which has a much warmer climate that England where I am currently wrapped in several blankets and wearing gloves inside my house. To me, the Minoans are fascinating purely because we know so little about them. Their civilisation appears to have been so different to ours. Indeed, women appear so often and in such prominent positions in their art that some believe the Minoans might actually have been a matriarchal culture. Yet there are some similarities, with Minoan fashion being quite similar to that of France in the 18th century, perhaps proving the idea that humans remain very similar creatures, even after all this time.  


 Eleanor 

Minoan Fresco


For more information please refer to the following:

Fashionencyclopedia.com, (n.d.). Minoan Dress - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Greece/Minoan-Dress.html [Accessed 14 Jan. 2016].

Symons, D. (1987). Costume of Ancient Greece. London: Batsford.

TimeMaps Atlas of World History, (2016). TimeMaps. [online] Available at: http://www.timemaps.com/civilization/Minoan-civilization [Accessed 14 Jan. 2016].

Pictures:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ea/Knossos_-_North_Portico_02.jpg
http://www.crete-alacarte.com/en/about_crete/mythology.aspx 
 https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/%CE%98%CE%B5%CE%AC_%CF%84%CF%89%CE%BD_%CE%8C%CF%86%CE%B5%CF%89%CE%BD_6393.JPG
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Minoan-fresco-tile-saffron-gatherer-3/dp/B005602W0A  
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/67/Feather_prince.jpg 
http://www.cfa.ilstu.edu/lmlowel/THE331/AegeansGreeks/Aegeanreview.html 
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/258137


https://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/minoan-jar.jpg

https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/out-the-darkness/201410/if-women-ruled-the-world-0