1920's - Everyday Coats and Scarves

Unfortunately for me, the delightful English weather all too often means that it is too cold or too wet too cold to go out in just a dress. Thankfully for the women of the 1920s, there were options to keep them all toasty and dry, whatever the weather.

Scarves

1920s Winter  Scarf

1920s Belted Knitted Scarf

 As the weather turned colder, women could seek to warm up their typical everyday outfit with the inclusion of a scarf, which in the 1920s became both practical and fashionable. Triangular knitted scarves, made of soft fabrics such as cotton or Alpaca wool were popular, and chunkier knitted scarves could also be worn. As the decade wore on patterned silk scarves gained in popularity, regardless of the season. These patterns followed the trends of the 1920s, such as floral, abstract, Asian and Art Deco prints and tended to be hand painted. 

1920s Silk Scarves

Scarves tended to be worn in several ways:

·         Wrapped around the neck

·         With one side slung over a shoulder

·         Hanging down straight, in which case they were often secured with a belt

·         Tied into a bow

1920s Wrapped Scarf

Coats and Jackets

1920s Coats

 

However, scarves alone were not enough to keep warm and coats were an essential part of any wardrobe. In summer, coats or jackets were made of lighter variations of materials such as tweed and wool. Initially summer coats were worn open, but loosely belted at the waist belted at the waist, displaying the outfit beneath. This was later replaced by the cocoon wrap style of coat, which is defined by its loose fit and voluminous sleeves, and tended to be fastened to one side. Both styles helped to emphasise the dropped waist fashion of the day and help accentuate the boyish silhouette that was the fashion.

1920s Coats

 

1920s Coat

Winter coats, whilst still fashionable, were also designed to keep the wearer warm. These coats tended towards more simple designs,typically being made of one block colour and following the straight up and down look. Typically, the hemlines of coats would mirror that of the garments underneath, as would the positioning of the belt, if one was included. Belts were rarely included for their intended function, instead providing decoration and breaking up the severe lines of the coat. Coats tended to be fastened asymmetrically, with buttons on the right hand side of the body.

Popular colours tended to be dark, or at least not eye catching, such as black, brown, and tan as well as darker greens, blues and reds.  The main body of the coat was made from fabrics such as wool suede velour, deep pile velvet, wool broadcloth, and velour coating, with lining made from softer materials such as crepe de chine, satin de chine, or other silks.

 The main decoration came at the collar and cuffs, which were finished in fur (or faux fur depending on your budget). If even faux fur was beyond your budget, collars and cuffs were turned back to display the lining to give a colourful contrast.

 Embroidery was also used as decoration, perhaps on the back of the coat, or on side panels that ran down the legs, although it was generally subtle and intended to not distract from the fur cuffs and collar. The side panels could be enlivened in other ways, such as by the use of pleating, which had the added benefit of aiding mobility.

1920s Coats, with side pleats

1920s Fur Coat

The 1920s saw the rise of fur coats, with furs such as mink, possum, racoon, seal, and sable to name but a few being prized. Cheaper furs, included weasel, rabbit and squirrel. Often these furs would be dyed to closer resemble their more expensive counterparts. Faux fur was also an option, with fabrics such as Siberian fur cloth being created. Unsurprisingly, fur coats were very costly, so the majority of women stuck to fur cuffs and collars. 

1920s 'It' Girl Louise Brooks

Raincoats were another matter altogether in that they prioritised function over fashion. In the 1920s, raincoats tended to be made from oilskin or rubber coated cotton or similar fabrics, in order to keep the wearer dry. They also, tended towards bright colours, perhaps to increase the visibility of the wearer to motorists. There were two main distinct styles of raincoat; the first is the rain cape, preferred by older women, which is similar to the modern rain poncho, whilst the other is the trench coat, first worn by men, which gained popularity amongst women in the 1920s. Neither style came equipped with a hood, so some form of waterproof hat would also be required.

1920s Raincoats

Overall, there are several key recurring themes in 1920s fashion. Primarily, an emphasis on simplicity and ease of production, that allowed all levels of society to appear up to date on the latest fashions. Another theme is the co-opting of traditionally male styles or garments, by women's fashion, even in something as simple as a raincoat.

1927 Autumn Coat Collection

Eleanor 

Images:

http://headtotoefashionart.com/2013/classic-coats-1920s-autumnwinter/ 

http://www.fraserknitwear.com/influences-on-fair-isle-knitwear-design-in-the-1920s-and-1930s

https://meylah.com/VintagePatternsDazespast/vintage-knitting-crochet-patterns-1920s-sweaters-scarves-hats-crocheted-lace-parasols-columbia-book-of-yarns

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/286682332505609051/

http://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-shawls/

https://afinecollection.wordpress.com/2013/12/11/fur-coat-mid-late-1920s/

http://zedisred.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/original-it-girl-of-1920s-allure-of.html

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/485544403549699576/

Fashions of Egypt: Accessorize like an Egyptian

My last post dealt with the styles and fabrics of Egyptian clothing, so this time I have decided to focus on jewellery, examining the gems, metals and styles the Egyptians found fashionable.

Gold was used extensively in Egyptian Jewellery. Mines in the Eastern desert made the metal (relatively) cheap and accessible, and the Pharaoh would organise mining missions personally. However, gold was often just the setting for elaborate jewelled beads. Lapis Lazuli, which came from Afghanistan, was particularly popular, as the colour blue was associated with heaven and rebirth in Egyptian myth and lore. Red carnelian also appears to have been common, and could also be mined in the Eastern desert. Some of our earliest examples of Jewellery from around 3000 BCE also feature Turquoise, which came from Sinai.

Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise and Carnelian Necklace from the British Museum

One of the most common styles of necklace was the Wesekh collar, which sprung into popularity in the eighteenth dynasty. This was a type of beaded necklace worn by both men and women, formed of many layers small and cylindrical beads (I have attached a section on how to make a collar at the end of this post). Amulets were the other main form of necklace, and were designed to grant magical protection to the wearer. These were actually worn by the dead more often than the living. Lapis Lazuli or carnelian would be shaped into a divine symbol (for example the djed pillar of Osiris, or the more famous eye of Horus) to protect the body in the perilous journey through the afterlife.

Wesekh Collar from the 11th Dynasty, at the British Museum

Djed Pillar Amulet at the British Museum

Tomb art also suggests the Egyptians wore earrings and arm bands. The tomb of Nebamun depicts women wearing large, flat, disc earrings, apparently made from pure gold. Bracelets and arm bands seem to have been tight and decorated with blue beads. The Egyptians also wore finger rings, fashioned out of any of their favorite stones, and decorated with protective hieroglyphs or divine symbols.

Women in Collars, Earrings and Bracelets at the Tomb of Nebamun

This post took a lot longer to write than intended (though I won’t pretend procrastination didn’t play some part in that). Next time, I plan to write about Egyptian hairstyles, both wigs and natural hair. For any further reading on this topic I would highly recommend www.ancientegyptonline.com which is both accurate, and fun to read.

-Rachael

Sources:

www.ancientegyptonline.com

Robins, G. 2008. The Art of Ancient Egypt. Cambridge, MA.

Harris, E.L. 1998. Ancient Egyptian Divination and Magic. Boston, MA and York Beach, ME.

Ogden, J. 1992. Ancient Jewellery. London.

Making a Wesekh collar:

1.       First, get a length of string or wire that will fit comfortably around your collarbone, and meet at the top of your spine. Then begin to add beads. Blues, yellows and reds are the most accurate colours, but feel free to experiment with whatever you think looks best for a more modern twist.

2.       Every two or three beads along, tie another piece of short string or wire to your first piece. Continue doing this until the entire thing is filled

3.       Put a few more beads on the short pieces of string or wire, but don’t cover them completely as you will need enough room at the end to tie a knot.

4.       If you stop here, you have made a normal Egyptian necklace! However if you want to make a full collar, then begin to tie a new length of string, slightly longer than your first, to the shorter pieces. Make sure to check this will also meet on your back. Add beads as you go along, and it should look something like this.

5.       Do this as often as you want, until you are happy with number of layers in your collar. Then tie the ends together, and you have the collar!