Showing posts with label Egyptians. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Egyptians. Show all posts

Friday, 15 April 2016

Fashions of Egypt- Hairy Pharoahs

This is my third (and final) post in the Egyptian fashions series. I finally get the chance to focus on something I have wanted to from the beginning- how the Egyptians wore their hair. Throughout history, how people have worn their hair has included clues to their gender, wealth and social class, something no less true for the ancient Egyptians. Alex wrote an absolutely fantastic post on wigs a few weeks ago, so this post will focus instead on how Egyptians dealt with their natural hair, and some of the seemingly strange practices involved in it.

Ancient Egypt was rife with disease, as the Nile floods only encouraged the spread of water-borne illness such as schistosomiasis and malaria. As such, grooming was incredibly important, as keeping clean was vital to a long life. Long hair, and beards, was sometimes seen as unclean, as it encouraged head lice and was a breeding ground for other diseases. This is where we reach the first hurdle in studying hair, as to prevent the spread of illness many Egyptians, and particularly men, shaved their head.

An Egyptian man with a shaved head


The first hairstyle any Egyptian wore, regardless of social class or gender, was a shaved head with a braided sidelock, or very occasionally in the New Kingdom several braids. This sidelock had a mythological importance, it was the hairstyle worn by the god Horus as a child, a form he was often represented in. It was due to the mythological significance of the sidelock that we also see it worn by various religious figures, notably ‘sem-priests’ who helped ensure the safe passage of the dead to the afterlife.

The Pharaoh Akhenaten, his wife Nefertiti and their daughters
Evidence from mummies suggests wealthy women did sometimes wear their hair long, augmented by accessories made of ivory or gold. Unlike men, women were rarely depicted as bald, save as children or during the Amarna period. The positioning of some mummies suggests occasionally women wore their hair long beneath their wigs, and when they didn’t wear a wig at all may have styled their hair extravagantly to look like they were.

Egyptian women sporting a variety of different hairstyles
Men would wear their hair short, either closely cropped or completely shaven. The poor, servants and slaves are often depicted without any hair at all, a symbol of their low status. Short hair was also donned by elite men however, to make their wigs easier to wear. Men also shaved their beards, only allowing it to grow as a sign of mourning, and likely shaving again shortly after the funeral. The ‘false beard’, a plaited and curled accessory which jutted from the chin, was worn by the Pharaoh as early as 3,000 BCE however, and continued to be worn until the late period (664-332 BCE) by the Pharaoh and other elite citizens. Actual beards seem to have become more popular by Greek and Roman Egypt, where they appear on mummy portraits.

King Tutankhamun sporting a false beard
So that is it for my series on Egyptian fashions! I hope it proved interesting, and somewhat informative in places. I know I enjoyed to write it at least! Especially this last post, which I had the pleasure to write and research in Rome, which it absolutely glorious. I am still mulling over what I want my next series of posts to be- however whatever I decide on I hope proves to be as fun to write as this series has been!

Sources:
Robins G. Hair and the Construction of Identity in Ancient Egypt, c. 1480-1350 B.C
Robins G. Women in Ancient Egypt
Tyldesley J. Daughters of Isis: Women of Ancient Egypt

Image Sources:
http://www.historymuseum.ca/cmc/exhibitions/civil/egypt/egcl06e.shtml
http://portsmouthpoint.blogspot.it/2013/03/ides-of-march-lecture-ancient-egypt.html
http://me13in.tumblr.com/post/83802148271/pseudofailure-yowhosedogisthat
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/01/21/king-tuts-mask-damaged_n_6520910.html

Saturday, 27 February 2016

Egyptians: Eyeliner Experts Extraordinaire

We are all familiar with the Egyptian style of make-up depicted in popular culture. Think Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra and you get the idea. Miraculously, Hollywood got something right with her make-up (if not her clothing, which was overly sexualised).
Liz looking lovely


The Ancient Egyptians actually had quite a lot of make-up, and both men and women wore it. Make-up was accessible to both the wealthy and the poor, however the wealthy had more expensive and luxurious containers and applicators which were beautifully carved and bejewelled to display wealth. Our evidence for the use of make-up in Egypt comes from: ancient texts including those detailing the preparation of cosmetics, medical papyri, artwork and the cosmetic pots and equipment found buried in grave sites. We know that they had what is equivalent to our lip gloss, rouge and even nail varnish. As for the excellent eye make-up, you only have to look at Egyptian artwork or death masks like Tutankhamun’s incredibly famous one to suggest what eyeliner experts they could be – in fact, it’s almost impossible to find an image of an Ancient Egyptian without their eyes dramatically lined to create the look of the Sun God, Ra.

Those eyeliner skills are nothing to 'Tut' about.

Although looking beautiful was certainly a consideration when applying make-up, eye make-up had a medical, spiritual and perhaps even magical significance as well. For medical purposes, it protected their eyes from the glare of the sun, while some ingredients in the make-up had hydrating properties. Other ingredients of their heavy eye make-up also guarded their eyes from infection-causing bacteria and from flies. For spiritual purposes, eye make-up was seen to provide psychic protection (the word the Egyptians used for eye palette seems to come from their word for ‘protect’) because an eye without makeup would be vulnerable to the Evil Eye, whereas a painted eye was like an amulet and kept them safe.


Unlike our wide variety of make-up today (when, for example, eyeliner can come in pencil form, liquid form, as a felt tip pen, as a cream to be applied with a brush, in different colours, and all ready to be applied immediately without any extra preparation), Egyptian make-up took much more time to get ready. Before applying make-up, the minerals used to make it would need to be ground into powder, and the powders mixed with oil or animal fat to make a paste so that they could be spread onto the skin. 

The Egyptians had two types of eye make-up to add colour to the eyelids, Udju and Mesdemet. They also had Kohl to line the eyes (among other things).

Marvellous malachite
Gorgeous galena












Udju was made from green malachite, mined in Sinai, a place sacred to Hathor. Hathor is a goddess whose many associations include beauty and love. It was possibly believed that wearing malachite would put you under Hathor’s protection.

Mesdemet was a dark grey iron ore, which came from galena (lead sulphide). Galena could be found in Aswan and the Red Sea Coast, and it was a material which Pharaoh Hatshepsut (an awesome female pharaoh if you didn’t know – check her out!) brought back from her famous Punt expedition. Medical papyri mention the health benefits of mesdemet for the eyes, talking of its disinfectant qualities among other things. 

Kohl is cool
Kohl, made from powdered antimony, carbon and copper oxide, was used as an eyeliner, mascara and eyebrow colour. The kohl available to us today is incredibly similar to the kohl which the Ancient Egyptians used, except most of us no longer use kohl in a pot with a kohl stick but are more familiar with its other forms, such as kohl pencils.

Not one to miss a chance to try something new, particularly after having learnt so much about it for this post, I decided to give the Egyptian eye make-up a go myself. I wanted to try and use materials as close to what the Egyptians would have used as possible, but being a poor student I couldn’t afford to buy a proper pot of kohl and a kohl stick, and the idea of crushing up minerals and mixing them with animal fat really didn’t appeal to me! Instead I used the make-up I already owned, hoping to give a sense of the look with what I had to hand. Using only liquid eyeliner and blue and green eyeshadows for my eyelids and brown eyeshadow for my eyebrows (which the Egyptians would have painted on), I managed to achieve this:

The look took me about five minutes and it goes to show that anyone could pull off the dramatic Egyptian/Cleopatra/Liz Taylor look. Maybe one to try next time an invitation to a fancy dress party (or in my case, fancy dress uni bar crawl) comes along?

A final thing to leave you with: Returning to the subject I started this post with – Egyptian make-up in pop culture – it is unsurprising that gorgeous Miss Taylor’s Cleopatra look became incredibly popular after the film came out (even though the film was a bit of a flop). Women wanted to imitate the dramatic make-up, particularly the eyes. Check out this make-up advert for Revlon after Liz Taylor’s Cleopatra look became famous: 


I wonder what the Egyptians would have thought of us, thousands of years later, emulating their make-up styles?

Images:


For more information, or to see where I got mine from, explore these:
Napoleon, A. 2003. Awakening Beauty: An Illustrated Look at Mankind's Love and Hatred of Beauty. TX.
Sherrow, V. 2001. For Appearance' Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming. Westport, CT.
Makeup Through the Ages. Available at: http://makeupthroughtheages.blogspot.co.uk/
Cleopatra and Egyptian Fashion in Film. Available at: http://www.threadforthought.net/egyptian-fashion/
Ancient Egyptian Eye Makeup. Available at: http://www.touregypt.net/egypt-info/magazine-mag09012000-mag4.htm